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[cool][#0000ff]I keep experimenting with different motor mounts on my Fat Cat float tube. Made a new one last month that is lightweight and compact...but seems to be rock solid even with my 40# electric motor.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]This model is designed to fit on the pointy bow of any V-tube. But because different makes and models are of different thickness and design it will have to be custom measured and fitted for anything other than a Fat Cat. In the attached pics I have edited in dimensions on the components I used.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The basic idea is to use a "float pack" with two boat bumpers under the front of the tube...to support the additional weight of the battery and motor. Then the angled downshaft of the motor mount pushes down through the hole at the V top of the tube and down through the gap between the two boat bumpers. That helps lock it in place after you securely bungee the mount and the float pack together...around the top front part of the tube.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One other new thing I incorporated on this mount was the use of some PVC boards I found at Lowes. They are 3 1/2" wide by about 3/4" thick. They do not warp or crack from moisture and they are tough...tough to saw and hold screws well. I used two thicknesses of those to replace the single piece of 2X4 I had been using for my motor mounts.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The one modification I made after my first trip out with the new model was adding another piece of 1" PVC (see pic) between the two PVC slats to curtail the tendency to squeeze inward when the motor is tightened down on the mount.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have had it on the water about 3 or 4 times now and it seems rock solid. Definitely takes up less space in the vehicle and on the tube.[/#0000ff]
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Great job TD!
In your last picture there is a yellow rope attached, where does it go?
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[cool][#0000ff]One on either side...down to my plexiglas panel with my registration numbers.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By the way, I am also working on that new version of the underside mounting frame. Will have a model ready to test soon.[/#0000ff]
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Thanks for the picture, I just remembered the rope on the underside at the front of the bumpers and could not figure out how it got to the back and top of the tube. Silly me it wasn't even involved[:p]
A new bottom? must be on the end where to upper part comes through, just guessing[crazy] Or are you going to spread the bumpers apart a little? just guessing again.
I have been waiting on the new design before I finished mine up. Need to get it done so I can prepare the ICE gear for a possible Dec. trip[cool][fishin]
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[cool][#0000ff]As I mentioned in a PM, the first design worked very well...with the 30# thrust motor. But it seemed to be subject to "torque" a bit more with the stronger 40# motor...with the single center PVC shaft. In the diagram below you can see that I plan to eliminate the center shaft and go to an outside frame...with two shafts running all the way up to the motor mount. Properly secured it should be a lot more stable.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I will probably put the prototype together this coming week and I will send you the pics...with dimensions. These are usually things that I have to measure, cut and recut as I go to get it all to fit together right. But once I have the initial model in place and working I can remeasure and mark down the dimensions for anybody else who wants to give it a try.[/#0000ff]
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Good designs. Both look nice, clean, and should work well.
Well done!
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[cool][#0000ff]Thanks.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The compact model works fine but I still lusted after a rebuild on the under-the-tube version. I finished my prototype over the weekend and will be testing it this week. (see pics)[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]So far it looks like the ultimate. It is surprisingly compact and lightweight, super rigid and sturdy and is easy to install and remove.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I will take some more pics and will post a review after using it a couple of trips. However, future pictures may include snow and ice and may not be for the wimpy at heart.[/#0000ff]
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You are the master of PVC. A lot of thought in this.
I would like to ask just a couple of questions.
What if you put more PVC in front of the bumpers so they form a V or the same shape as the bottom of the tube. Would a point cut through the water better?
Also, have you considered cam straps instead of Bungies?
Thanks,
FG
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TD that look very good. Something I should see in person to really understand it. The first thought that comes to my mind is maybe this is the reason I didn't get rid of my H-3. With some modification would it work ???
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[cool][#0000ff]Logical thinking. But the ends of the floats ride slightly above the water level under power. A point might not be much help. And I ain't a point engineer. I deal only with round clumsy stuff.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The arrangement on the new model uses only two 14" bungees. They hook over the center riser and around to hook on each other...just that fast and easy. If I am leaving the setup assembled for solo trips that is not a biggie. But when two of us have to deflate and inflate our craft on any given trip it is good to have something that sets up and breaks down more quickly.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Took it out today for the trial run. Rock solid and runs well.[/#0000ff]
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[cool][#0000ff]You know where I live. Glad to show it to you first hand. And you can bring your H3 over to see how close it might fit. The dimensions should be pretty close. I had to cut to fit on the Fat Cat so some minor tweaks and it should work fine.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I had guessed that it would be the most solid frame I have made yet...and it is. With the two side shafts instead of the single center one there is no torque at all...even with my 40# motor.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have already set up at least one H3 with a motor and battery.[/#0000ff]
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really liking the new design! it does look real rock solid!
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[cool][#0000ff]Glad you like it. I will be putting together a pictorial PDF writeup on it in the next few days...with step by step, dimensions, etc.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Here's how it looked with the motor on it yesterday.[/#0000ff]
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That really looks good!
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I like the mega motor mount. I have a float power that i used a few times. find it hard to get it all loaded up and into the water. I think i will try and do a version of the mega motor mount for my ODC 420 should be pretty close to yours
thanks for sharing the good info.
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[cool][#0000ff]The design will work on any "V" tube. The variables are in the size of boat bumper floats you use and the distance between the bottom D rings and the end of the tube.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]There are three component parts...the float pack, the basic frame and the motor mount riser. You start by getting your floats and setting them up for mounting. Then you build the frame so that the connectors on the float pack fit into the frame at the right points. After that you vary the length of the connections in front to get a proper fit. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]It takes some measuring, cutting, fitting and remeasuring and recutting to get everything to go together right. The nose portion on the 420 is not quite as thick as on the Fat Cat but that will all be taken care of during the fitting process.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I will be putting together a more detailed instructional PDF file in the next few days. If you would like a copy you can send me a PM and I will make sure I send one to you.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have already helped set up a couple of ODC 420s with motors...using the top frames. [/#0000ff]
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Man you have come a long way. Looking back was not that long ago, you have made some great progress
Oh, and rmd, I think inspiration started with that float power. I had on on my doughnut about 20 years ago. It was a start, but on a doughnut, it was flat out dangerous...LOL (trying to get in while in a foot or so of water)
http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gfo...xi;#583134
http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gfo...rs;#590763
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[cool][#0000ff]Tanks.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I also tried the float power...many long years ago. Quickly decided it was more trouble than it was worth. Especially in the round tubes.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I actually started planning to motorize my first Fat Cat about 10 years ago. But I was far less experienced in the mysterious ways of PVC at that time. My first plans were for a wooden frame motor mount. But the combination of bulk, weight and splinters kinda kept me from even building one. In those days we also did not have the sealed maintenance free batteries and I was not wild about having an acid-leaking battery in my tube with me.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Then, about 3 years ago CPierce posted up about motorizing her FishCat and that jumpstarted my reinterest in the possibilities. I had accumulated a lot more experience with PVC engineering and put together several different frame models. All have worked...some better than others.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]This one is the culmination of a lot of trial and error. I think it will suit my needs for a while.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Have helped several other Utah BFTers put power on their tubes. Most say they cannot imagine ever doing without it again...even some a lot younger than myself.[/#0000ff]
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i really like the idea of the one piece under mount.
just mount it up to the tube and get the tube in the water, then the battery then the motor, man that would be awesome. so much better then trying to carry all three at once into the water.
so why do you screw vs glue??? is it just so you can test fit or do you think its stronger. do you use schedule 40 or schedule 80?? and is it mostly 3/4 or 1 inch
thanks Dave
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[cool][#0000ff]I use 1" schedule 40 PVC for all parts that will be under stress. I use the lighter walled type 200 for making rod holder tubes...or for places where lightness is more important than strength.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I use 3/8" PVC water cooler line for joining the two boat bumpers for the float pack. Very little stress on that part...just the weight/floatation of the bumpers.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I started using 1/2" 8/32 phillips head machine screws as a means of being able to more easily make changes to my prototypes and experiments. If something doesn't work, I can salvage the parts or make necessary changes without having to sacrifice expensive fittings that have been glued.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I discovered that using two screws on each joint provided as much holding power as a glued joint. And there was fewer problems with joints breaking loose when flexed under use.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You are right about the ease of launching. I drive up to the water, top off the air in my tube, load the pockets with tackle and then drop in first the battery and then attach the motor.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The system that I have found that works best is to place the tube in the water with the nose out. Once the battery is in, you can push it into slightly deeper water so there is less weight to drag out on launch. Then attach the motor and again, pull the tube a bit further into the water...not so far that it will drift off.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]To launch, I pull the tube backwards out into water deep enough to drop the motor down and then adjust the motor to the height and angle I want. Then I attach the battery and do a quick test to make sure I have it hooked up okay and the controls work. I have an auxilliary on/off switch wired into my motor to prevent it from starting when I don't want it to.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Coming back in at the end of the day is just the reverse. Shut the motor off before you get shallow enough to hit bottom with the prop. Kick into still shallower water and stand up. Then turn your tube around and disconnect the battery. Then raise the motor and tilt it forward for the ramp. Again, pull the nose up onto the ramp first. Then reverse the loading process: remove the motor, battery and then the tackle, rods, etc.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Once you get a system and practice a bit it takes little time to get set up and boogie. The additional options it adds to your fishing and the added security and auxilliary power in case of need far outweighs a few extra minutes for setup and takedown.[/#0000ff]
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