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Anybody use the nanofil line? I'm thinking of trying it out but not sure if I should tie a leader of mono or how long to make it if I do. Any sugestions and feedback are very appreciated. Thanks
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[#0000FF]I have been using it...side by side with my fave mono...for about 2 years. Like all lines it has its good times and bad times. Nothing universal.
Upside: Small diameter...less than 1/3 of same weight rated mono. No memory...no kinks and coils coming off the spools. Casts like a dream...probably 20 to 30 percent further than mono with similar rod and lure matchup. No stretch...increases sensitivity to light bites.
Downside: Hard to cut but nicks easily from exposed hook points. Also tends to slip into line holder catches on reel spools. Tangles with mono leaders are a nightmare to undo. Requires good knots with lubrication. Slips if you don't do it right. Expensive...best to "top shot" rather than fill a whole spool.
I prefer it to mono in most fishing situations. I use mostly the light color but do have a couple of spools with the green. Have not noticed any line spooking on fish even though I have tied directly to Nanofil to check it out.
I usually use at least a 3 to 5 foot leader of Silver Thread Excalibur. Some folks prefer fluoro. Use a double uni knot to join the Nano to leader. But a good six wrap blood knot will do the job too. Just be sure to wet it good and pull each element slowly together. Once it is cinched up it is solid.
For tieing onto hooks or lures I like the improved clinch knot. But I run the line through the hook eye or swivel twice before completing the knot. Reduces slippage and adds strength.
Nano is tougher than rated. I use 8 or 10# leaders at the end of my 6# Nano. I can't break the Nano while fishing from my float tube. But if I rear back and haul on a snag the heavier leader will break before the 6# Nano.
Just a word of caution. Use a soft tipped rod if you use Nano for crappies, kokanee or other soft mouthed fishes. Non-stretch line and stiff rods will rip the lips.
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Im mainly fishing lmb and smb down here in the desert at lake mead and Mohave. I have heard the nicking problem and has me worried but I will only use it on my crank baits. I have just noticed lately that fish have been coming unbuttoned on long casts and am thinking its because of the stretch of mono not setting hooks well. I like to use soft tip rods and light line anyhow so that's not a huge issue for me.
Thanks for the info and advice.
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[#0000FF]I am using the 12 pound on a couple of medium sticks. Love it.
Having fish come unbuttoned after a hookset can often be the result of too much stretch in the line or a wimpy rod. Another problem with a lot of guys is the way they set the hook...pulling instead of popping. I have coached a few fellow tanglers into better ratios by using the example of pounding a nail into a board. You can't push it through the wood. You gotta whack it. Same for setting the hook in a fish. Amazing how much better the hook penetration with a snap hookset rather than a slow pullback. Okay for circle hooks but not crankbaits.
I have also had periods when I seemed to be having more "long line releases". Sometimes just adding a double hookset can help. After the first set, reel down tight and pop it again. Some fish have hard mouths and others have hard spots that are hard to stick.
Oh yeah, using good sharp hooks is pretty important too.
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Pretty much the same here as others posted.
Nicks easily. Check often.
You can cast considerably further with it on a spinning rod verse any other line.
Spinning rod ONLY use.
I like the 10 & 12lb line for bass fishing. 14lb is a little "wirery". (I know not a word...)
I don't care for the white. I like the newer green color.
It does blow braid/anything else that exists out of the water sensitivity wise when used on a good rod.
Knots are not easy. As a matter of fact straight up the hardest knot to tie is anything with Nanofil. The stuff is just so dam slippery almost all knots slip out. Double Palomar to a lure is the standard and sticks good. Any other knot had better be perfect and over done to hold (like nanofil to fluoro leader).
I only use it on one rod just because there isn't much else for options. One of Madisons spinning rods that she uses for med depth cranks. Nanofil really was the only way to get some "decent" strength and allow her to cast decent distances. The rod is a med 7' Shimano with a super soft tip on it so she hasn't experienced much as far as catch losses using a line for cranks that doesn't stretch at all. I also have the drag set pretty light on that rod.
I tried it on my drop-shot set-up and I really did't care for it. It worked fine but so does 10lb braid. Casting distances doesn't matter with a drop shot so why bother with something knot picky that nicks so easily verse braid that lasts through years and years of abuse. Also due to it being so prone to nicks it doesn't make sense on our lakes to use it on a shakey head since one is down in the rocks and muck using that technique. I stick to braid on both my drop shot rod and shakey head spinning rods with Seaguar InvizX Fluoro for leaders.
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Speaking of braid... Seaguars new Smackdown sleek/ultra smooth braid is dam near as slippery as nonofil. I like it so far but dam that stuff is slippery and a little picky when one ties on a Fluoro leader.
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Rite on guys I really appreciate your input now to bass pro to reload... hahaha
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The casting distance with nano fill is awesome!
But after having more than one well tied double palamor knot slip... I had to give it up. Not worth the extra distance. And I agree like stated before, its tough to handle bcs it is so thin and slick.
It got stuck places on my reels I did not know exsisted.
Its kind of like fishing with waxed dental floss.
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I haven't tried the Nano - the reviews scared me off.
Quagga mussels + Easily nicked line = Disaster
A side note though:
I have found that a uni to uni knot if perfect for tying braid to fluoro. There is a trick though.
The common way to tie a uni is with 5 wraps. If you do 5 wraps on the mono/fluoro side, you are good, but if you increase the braid side to 8 wraps, it never slips.
My 2ยข
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There is hardly any knots that I trust with Fluoro. But with that being said Fluoro is all that I use other than Braid for a couple techniques. The advantage of Fluoro out weigh the PITA factor of it. One "wins or loses" the battle on the lake with the knot when it comes to Fluorocarbon.
The knot I use to a lure with Fluoro and the knot I use for Braid to Fluoro I don't even know the names of. Certainly not "easy" or common. Anything simple just doesn't work as good imo. I tried just about everthing there is over a couple weekends worth of time goofing around. Tie the knot, hook it up to a fish weight scale and pull till it breaks taking note of the numbers on the scale when it let loose and where the break was at (at the knot or the line itself). Not scientified but enough for me to slowly learn what works for me. Something I think most should do themselves to see what works and what doesn't for them.
The knot I use for braid to fluoro is something like a double albright or a variation of (I couldn't find anything on all the different knot websites that exactly matches what I do). I never became a fan of the double uni at least with Fluoro. I lost too much strength in the knot alone using a double Uni. Anything irt Fluoro is different for me and I am very picky about the knot. Mono one can do almost nothing wrong...
I also couldn't find anything even remotely close to how I tie Fluoro to a lure on any of the knot websites...
I guess in the end a useless post. lol I didn't give out too much info.
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I use nanofil exclusively on two of my rods. I have yet to have a knot fail. I usually tie my nanofil to a crane swivel or ball bearing snap swivel with a double palmor knot or a quadruple surgeon's knot. I make sure that I wet the line really well and take my time tightening the knot down. The thing I you have to really worry about with nanofil in line twist. If you don't have a good swivel on it you tend to get a lot of line twist which will weaken your mainline. The only time I have broken off with nanofil was when I tied the line directly to a lure which caused a lot of line twist and I then broke off above the crane swivel that I was using at the time.
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So how long of a leader do you recomend for tying to braid? Do you think the bass are that spooky of the braid being tied directly to your lure or dropshot set up? I've heard severl different opinions on that but have no personal exp. I've only used monomy whole life except fishin for big striper on the river and I wwasn't casting so I used 25-30 ft leaders for a lil stretch and stealth. Always uni to uni knot and never had a failure.
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On my shakey head rod I tie a leader about the length of the rod. Allows for changes before one has to put another leader on. On my drop shot rod 2-3 feet or so above the hook or so.
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