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Pontoon craft fishfinder setup
#1
Well I've been tinkering around with different ideas for mounting a fishfinder on my pontoon, I've read the comments here, and spent some time at the local Home Depot and Sportsman's Warehouse, and here is what I came up with. This setup works quite well, is easy to take apart, and it all fits in one of the storage bags of the toon. The PVC pipe is 1/2 inch, the PVC tee is a 1 1/4 X 1 1/4 X 1/2 threaded. The caps are 1 1/2 caps. I had to use a dremmel tool to slightly increase the size of the caps, and I also used it to slightly increase the inside diameter of the 1/2 PVC tee. This makes it easy for sliding the 1/2 pipe through the tee. Here are some pictures. The first image is the 1/2 tee mounted on the frame of the toon. I used the reamed out tee, and about 6 inches of 1/2 PVC. I gently heated the one end of the pipe and flattened it out. You must be careful here, too much heat too quickly will burn the PVC. The pipe cools over a period of a few minutes, so be patient, it holds its' shape nicely when cooled. There are 3 #12 X 3/4 stainless steel screws holding the mount on the frame.

[Image: image1a.jpg]

The second picture is of my "quicktatch" Transducer. The overall length is only 12", this could actually be shortened, as the transducer is about 6 inches in the water. I use the quick D pin to connect the pipe to the tee.

[Image: image4.jpg]

The 3rd image is of the hybrid Johnny Ray/RAM mount. The RAM mount attathes to the frame with a round rail adapter. I made an oak base, that I treated with Thompsons water seal, as the transition piece between the RAM and the Johnny Ray. I'm sure you could just use the RAM that is designed for individual brands of fishfinders, but I already use the Johnny Ray base in my ice fishing set up.

[Image: image2.jpg]

The final image is the mounted unit. I have both a Garmin fishfinder 240, and a 100. I use the 100 when I need to use my 14.4V rechargable drill battery, it only used about 1/2 the power as the 240, so the battery will last about 8 hours. I use the 240 when I have the deep cycle marine battery/minn kota motor attatched.

[Image: image3.jpg]

This was a fun project to work with. It was a little on the pricey side with purchasing both mounting systems, but well worth the effort. If anyone has any questions let me know, I'd be happy to answer them. The next project will be a rod holder! I think some PVC and a couple of D rings will do the trick there. Good luck to everyone next time your out fishing!
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#2
thats COOL!!! i want one sooooo bad. i want to put a fish finder on my tube!






joe
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#3
Nice setup . Thanks for the report . One of these days I may try this .
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#4
[cool]LOOKIN GOOD. That's the first well-thought-out system I have seen especially designed for a pontoon. It looks both solid and serviceable. We will be interested in your evaluation after a couple of sessions on the water...if you haven't already put them to the test.

The metal frame and greater surface area of a pontoon provide a wider range of opportunities for attaching sonar and other accessories. However, since there aren't many commercially made systems available, we still need to put on our thinking caps and spend some time at the tool bench. It looks like you planned it well and have some basic skills. Look out Tim Allen.

I have posted a couple of things on the wood and PVC rod holders I have been making for a few years. I recently bought a couple of inexpensive three-tube rod holders from BassPro, for some trips to the salt when I will not be taking sonar for the clear shallow water. Here's a pic of the $9.99 unit.

[Image: 546-338.jpg]

In trying various rod/reel combos, I find that whoever designed these did not actually try them before final mold making. The slots are too narrow for all but the smallest spinning reels, and the tubes are larger than I would prefer. However, I could not make them for less, so I am going to "modify" them to suit my gear. I will be taking spinning, baitcasting and a flyrod, and will custom cut them to fit. I will likely break out the duct tape to wrap around the tubes...closer to the top...to reduce the length of the gap for the reel seat to fit into. I think I will also cut a notch in the other side to help accomodate the trigger handles on my baitcasters.

I have just ordered a more expensive ($29) model for 4 rods, from Cabelas, to try also. These things are much lighter than the wood and PVC homemade models I am now using. My plan is to get them set up with cord and clips, mount them on my Fat Cat and shoot some pics. I will also do an on-the-water field test for actual function and design. Of course my review will appear when I have enough info to report.

Just a thought. You might want to start with something like this, and see if it works okay...or if you need to custom design something that works better for you. If you go to the website for baytubers.com, you will find some pontoon rod rack setups that run across behind the seat. There are also some similar pics on the club site for BassNTubes.

Let us know of your progress.

TubeDude
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#5
[Wink][size 4]nice.... i like the pics... i want to have a fishsinder someday ahahah[/size]

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[size 4]-chris[/size]
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#6
Thanks to all for the nice comments. I have taken it to a little pond by my house for a test run...seems to work just fine. I had originally thought about making a strapped on system, but with fluctuating pressures in the toon, due to weather/water temp changes, that idea had to be scrapped. I think this one will work out quite well.

Thanks for the ideas on the rod holders Tubedude. I'll have to do some thinking before I decide which route to take. I think 3 or 4 rod holders would be more than sufficient. Thinking of a way to make it detatchable yet sturdy...hmmmm....I'll keep you posted.
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#7
[cool]DETACHABLE, YET STURDY. I use clips on the end of nylon rope, for quick installation and breakdown. These snap on D-rings...or go around the frame and hook back on themselves. Make sure the top adjustment is just right to insure vertical positioning of the rods. The lower rope/clip setup should be just short enough that it needs to be hooked in place prior to final inflation, and the full inflation holds it tight.

Use lightweight nylon clips if you can find them. Other wise, anything from keychain clips to "S" hooks will do.

Good Luck.

TubeDude
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#8
Once again, thanks for the rod holder ideas TubeDude. I'm just waiting on the next paycheck before I can get started[Wink] I'll let you know how things go.
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#9
Rod holders can get a bit trickier with the pontoon boats. The setup TD uses would work great for pontoons, if you don't plan on using the oars. I rarely put on my oars if I'm fishing smaller waters. I have found that attaching a rod rack behind the seat or somewhere on the frame between the pontoons.

[Image: SCOU1712CustomImage2357529.jpg]

Here is my setup for the transducer. I need to rework it a bit more. The hole in the ply-wood is a "poor man's" rod holder. I need to set something up though that will hold a spinning outfit as well as a flyrod. My flyrods do not have a fighting butt on them that makes them a bit more sticky to work with. Think, think, think.

By the way TD, I just finished painting the entire house (inside only). Now, just to move in . . . I did sneak out to the Provo for a 1/2 break. I love living that close to the river!!!!! Unfortunately, I have a lot of work to do before I can start finding and catching fish consitently on that section of the river. It tough to fish with a flyrod unless your on the water, and then there isn't much room to cast. My spinning rod might get a workout. My next project is to rig up a system where I can tow my toon from my mountain bike.

See you on the water!!!

ES
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#10
[cool]First of all, I'll resize that pic to 400 pixels wide for you.

Second of all, you got the right idea, for a rear mount. Now you have to rig a different piece of wood, to which you can screw one of those cheap/light PVC holders. Here's a front pic, from the Bass-n-Tubes photo board, on how some of the bassers do it.

[Image: nicolo_raffo_12_6.jpg]

I have already determined that the slots in the commercially made rod holders are just a bit narrow, but if you widen them in small increments, and keep trying your fly rod until it fits just right, I think you will find the slot will hold your fly rod just fine. I do something similar with regular PVC.

Let's keep working on it.

TubeDude
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#11
Thanks for resizing that for me! I've been flirting with using something along these lines for horizontal mounting (pic from Cabelas). They run about $14. Then again, when I put my "shop" together in the garage, I may put something together similar to your setup. The previous owners of the house left some PVC laying around [cool]. I will be redoing my tranny mount using the 1/2 inch pvc ala Tube Dude style. [Image: i014221hz01.jpg]
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#12
Thanks EmuScud for the heads up on mounting the rods on the back! I hadn't considered oar interference....would have felt prett stupid to spend some time and effort, only to find I made the oars useless![Wink]

Where on the Provo do you like to fish? I'll be down there this fall for school, I'd like to learn a little more about that river. I've heard good reports. Good luck with the painting.
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#13
No problem on the heads up. I'm still trying to figure out mounting arrangements for my toon as well. I couldn't tell from your pics, do you have a motor mount on your toon?

I have fished the Provo from below Deer Creek Dam to Utah Lake. I am just learning how to fish the section closer to Utah Lake. That section is dominated by "warm water" spieces, e.g., walleye, LM Bass, bluegill, some crappie, white bass (during the spawn), catfish as you get closer to the lake, and a boat-load of carp. One of my first goals is to float that section in my pontoon. There is ton of water and structure that is only reachable by pontoon or canoe. The current is slow enough that with a little extra effort, you can move upstream with just your fins, but there is enough current to drift downstream at a perfect speed.

As you move upstream through the city of Provo, light weight tackle can be lots of fun for 10-15 inch browns and stocked rainbows. Once you get into the special regulation section and closer to Deer Creek dam, don't be suprized to hook into 18+ inch browns, rainbows, and an occational cut. The "middle section," between Deer Creek and Jordanelle, is also special regs and full of healthy trout.

For using your floating toy, you have Utah Lake (which Tube Dude could tell you a ton about), Deer Creek (try Poncho, Fishboy2, and a slew of others on the Utah board), and Jordanelle are all within an hours drive of downtown Provo/Orem.

I'll send you a PM with my contact info for when you get down this way, or if you have any other specific questions. I predominately flyfish, so I can be the most help in that area.

ES
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#14
Sounds like the Provo has a nice variety of fish to work with. In answer to your question, yes my toon does have a motor mount. I have a small 30lb thrust Minn Kota motor for it. It moves the toon around quite nicely. It's top speed is 3.6MPH. Not too shabby. I'm sure it's faster than I can row. I'll defenitely drop you a line in the fall. School is back in full swing in Sept, hopefully we can give it a try. Thanks.
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#15
[cool]Hey, 'TOONERS"...I was playing around with some designs and I think I have a quick and easy attachment to the back...between the air chambers, that will allow the simple mounting of both rod holders and transducer rods...even the golf club shaft applications.

I plan to make a decent diagram and instructions when I get the time, but essentially it is an "L" shaped contraption...wider across the horizontal surface, which attaches to the frame, and only about sixteen inches on the downward portion...to which you attach the rod holders.

If you have access to a piece of sturdy aluminum sheet you can bend and cut to fit...or heavy molded plastic sheeting...it can be lightweight and simple to clamp or screw to the frame. Even if you have to make it from wood, it shouldn't add too much weight, and will make "add-ons" easier.

Look for a diagram on a separate post later today or tomorrow. Schedule is kinda hectic and I am already writing this at 4 in the morning. Impressed?

TubeDude
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#16
Sounds interesting TubeDude. Can't wait to see the diagram.
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#17
4 AM huh? I knew you were an early riser, but that has to be against the law somewhere[Wink]. I only get up that early to go fishing. I'll be looking forward to the diagram as well.

TheeKillerbee, if you use a trolling motor, why don't you just use a trolling motor mount for your transducer? Then again, it could get beat up pretty bad that far down in the water . . . hmmmm

ES
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#18
I did consider that option as well, it would have been less expensive. I chose the current set up for one reason only, what if I'm in an area where hauling the toon is all I can do? Right now I have to make 3 trips, one with the toon, one with the motor (heavy little buggers) and one with the battery. That would be too time consuming if I weren't relatively close to the water.
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#19
[cool]I'd pay real money to see you try to backpack that into the Uintas.

Seriously, as I have said and written on many occasions, find the right craft for your kind of fishing. Pontoons are undeniably a better way to go if you have the right transportation and if you can get them to the water okay. But, for vehicles with minimal cargo space...and if you have the need to transport your craft over a sizeable distance...then a donut or Uboat is the better choice.

TubeDude
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#20
[cool]Hey, Nate. See the post on Rod holders for 'toons.

As I tell everybody, I get up at 4 and wake up at noon.

TubeDude
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