Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Fly tying beads
#1
I am still quite new at tying my own flies, and can I say it is quite a process learning all the materials and terminology! [crazy] But I continue to push forward and actually find it another fun aspect of fly fishing with many creative possibilities.

Currently I have been working on tying smaller flies, since it's a cold and snowy winter here in Idaho, and as I have looked at the fly tying materials I have gotten overwhelmed. Currently the most pressing question is, how does one know what size of beads fit what size of hooks? This may be a dumb question, but I'm trying to find a chart or something online and have not yet been successful.

What size of beads would you use for tying 20-22 size midges? Also, what's the scoop on glass beads verses tungsten, verses whatever other kinds of beads there are to use? I know that tungsten is for weight, at least I think I know that. [unimpressed][cool]

Anyhow, any thoughts on using beads in fly tying would be very handy. Thanks!
[signature]
Reply
#2
I had the same questions when I first tried a fly with a beadhead and I found that if you look on the back of the package of beads it will tell you what size hooks that bead is used on... now there is some crossover on that .. meaning a given size hook may be listed for two different sized beads .. and in that case I usually look for the middle ground .. meaning if the hook size is in the middle of the range listed that is the one I usually go for..

as for type bead.. glass, brass, tungsten... Ill have to let the more experienced tyers here answer that. but like you I am curious what they have to say..

MacFly [cool]
[signature]
Reply
#3
[left][Image: happy.gif][font "Garamond"][#008000][size 4]Hi there CTF - here is a reference chart that might be of help:[/size][/#008000][/font]
[center][inline "bead hook size.jpg"]

[left][left][left][size 4][font "Garamond"][#008000]I have a supply of brass, copper and a few tungsten beads but no glass.[/#008000][/font][/size]
[size 4][font "Garamond"][#008000]Would imagine that the advantage of glass is the varieties of colors[/#008000][/font][/size]
[size 4][font "Garamond"][#008000]Available and reduced cost.[/#008000][/font][/size]

[center][center][signature]
Reply
#4
Most metal beads are brass coated with something to give it some kind of color besides brass.

Some metal beads are copper but many times the ones listed as copper are referring to the color but actually are brass plated with copper. Not a big difference in weight either way but can be a difference in price.

Relatively new to the market are tungsten beads. They are more dense than brass so they get the fly down faster for a given bead size. This can be an advantage in strong currents or deep water. Tungsten is a lot more expensive than brass. Which is more expensive than glass.

As Dry Rod said glass comes in many colors but you can generally get more sparkle or brightness with glass beads than with metal beads

Oh, and then sometimes plastic beads are used. Particularily when doing an egg pattern.

The opinions of what is best is all over the map including no weight at all.

A lot of is off of what is important to you for that fly and what you have on hand. I mostly go with what I have on hand which generally is not the exact one I would have preferred.
[signature]
Reply
#5
I mainly use Tungsten. I don't wrap my flies with lead or lead sub wire. Much easier with just the bead.
Glass is translucent and gives a nice effect. There is also TUNGSTEN GLASS. It has a tungsten core.

Regular metal beads have a purpose though. That little extra if you don't want it to sink real fast.
On streamers I use CONEs same situation there with metal and Tungsten however, I rarely use Tungsten cones. I prefer Aluminum as I want my streamer or leech to float level (no nose dive) but I use a sinking line with them. This was I can pick what sink rate LINE to put me in the zone instead of the nose of a fly.
Thanks for the chart DryRod.

Sometimes a pattern may call for an OVERSIZED bead. This can be done with bigger EYE flies. You don't want the bead crowding the eye.
[signature]
Reply
#6
[font "Garamond"][#008000][size 4][Image: happy.gif]Forgot about the cones FGD as I have a few different sizes & colors on hand for tying some of my favorite streamers. Unfortunately they drive up the cost of a given fly.[/size][/#008000][/font]
[signature]
Reply
#7
Thank you all for the thoughts and ideas! They are all extremely helpful. It is amazing how specialized fly tying and fly fishing can be to the individual. It seems to take a lot of experience and practice to find ones own niche.

What type of bead would you all suggest for a simple zebra midge? Do you prefer them to slide along the bottom or a little above it?
[signature]
Reply
#8
I have two favorites for a Zebra, but both do have tungsten. I like the tungsten chrome and the Clear glass bead.
Keep in mind, you are talking very small, so they don't sink like a brick.

Wait till you get into feathers. They have their place also. Not all feathers make good softhackles for example.
[signature]
Reply
#9
Oye! [crazy] Don't give me any more to process right now! Next you'll be telling me that there are different kinds of thread! [crazy][sly] Just kidding. And since you brought the topic up FGD, what beginner pointers would you give on soft vs stiff hackle feathers?

Do you find yourself re-using your tungsten beads?
[signature]
Reply
#10
dont get her started.. LOL..

juz teasing sis..

MacFly [cool]
[signature]
Reply
#11
HEAY!

As far as the bead, if the fly gets total, you bet I recycle. Like DR said, they are a bit pricie.

Soft hackles, I like Marabou, Mallard, Guinea, & Schlappen Feathers for big streamer size, medium size or nymph I like Partridge, CDC, Coq De Leon, & Speckled Hen Back. For Tiny Softhackles, I like Starling and CDC.
You don't want feathers too stiff.
[signature]
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)