11-02-2012, 09:41 PM
[cool][#0000ff]I use 1" schedule 40 PVC for all parts that will be under stress. I use the lighter walled type 200 for making rod holder tubes...or for places where lightness is more important than strength.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I use 3/8" PVC water cooler line for joining the two boat bumpers for the float pack. Very little stress on that part...just the weight/floatation of the bumpers.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I started using 1/2" 8/32 phillips head machine screws as a means of being able to more easily make changes to my prototypes and experiments. If something doesn't work, I can salvage the parts or make necessary changes without having to sacrifice expensive fittings that have been glued.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I discovered that using two screws on each joint provided as much holding power as a glued joint. And there was fewer problems with joints breaking loose when flexed under use.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You are right about the ease of launching. I drive up to the water, top off the air in my tube, load the pockets with tackle and then drop in first the battery and then attach the motor.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The system that I have found that works best is to place the tube in the water with the nose out. Once the battery is in, you can push it into slightly deeper water so there is less weight to drag out on launch. Then attach the motor and again, pull the tube a bit further into the water...not so far that it will drift off.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]To launch, I pull the tube backwards out into water deep enough to drop the motor down and then adjust the motor to the height and angle I want. Then I attach the battery and do a quick test to make sure I have it hooked up okay and the controls work. I have an auxilliary on/off switch wired into my motor to prevent it from starting when I don't want it to.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Coming back in at the end of the day is just the reverse. Shut the motor off before you get shallow enough to hit bottom with the prop. Kick into still shallower water and stand up. Then turn your tube around and disconnect the battery. Then raise the motor and tilt it forward for the ramp. Again, pull the nose up onto the ramp first. Then reverse the loading process: remove the motor, battery and then the tackle, rods, etc.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Once you get a system and practice a bit it takes little time to get set up and boogie. The additional options it adds to your fishing and the added security and auxilliary power in case of need far outweighs a few extra minutes for setup and takedown.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I use 3/8" PVC water cooler line for joining the two boat bumpers for the float pack. Very little stress on that part...just the weight/floatation of the bumpers.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I started using 1/2" 8/32 phillips head machine screws as a means of being able to more easily make changes to my prototypes and experiments. If something doesn't work, I can salvage the parts or make necessary changes without having to sacrifice expensive fittings that have been glued.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I discovered that using two screws on each joint provided as much holding power as a glued joint. And there was fewer problems with joints breaking loose when flexed under use.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]You are right about the ease of launching. I drive up to the water, top off the air in my tube, load the pockets with tackle and then drop in first the battery and then attach the motor.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The system that I have found that works best is to place the tube in the water with the nose out. Once the battery is in, you can push it into slightly deeper water so there is less weight to drag out on launch. Then attach the motor and again, pull the tube a bit further into the water...not so far that it will drift off.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]To launch, I pull the tube backwards out into water deep enough to drop the motor down and then adjust the motor to the height and angle I want. Then I attach the battery and do a quick test to make sure I have it hooked up okay and the controls work. I have an auxilliary on/off switch wired into my motor to prevent it from starting when I don't want it to.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Coming back in at the end of the day is just the reverse. Shut the motor off before you get shallow enough to hit bottom with the prop. Kick into still shallower water and stand up. Then turn your tube around and disconnect the battery. Then raise the motor and tilt it forward for the ramp. Again, pull the nose up onto the ramp first. Then reverse the loading process: remove the motor, battery and then the tackle, rods, etc.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Once you get a system and practice a bit it takes little time to get set up and boogie. The additional options it adds to your fishing and the added security and auxilliary power in case of need far outweighs a few extra minutes for setup and takedown.[/#0000ff]
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