01-26-2010, 03:11 AM
As a wood carver who spends many hours, yes hours sharpening blades from Planes to #12 gouges I have to say that if you do not touch the backside of the blade, they will not cut worth a darn.
I also sharpen my own auger blades, but would not recommend it to most.
First, if you try, mark the edge to be sharpened with a black wide tip sharpie so you can see what you have done and not done. Do not move the stone from the front of the blade to the back. Move the stone along the front edge of the blade keeping careful watch of the angle and keeping it the same from end to end. When you think you have a sharp edge, use a 10x loupe to inspect the edge. Use the sharpie to mark where more work needs to be done. When you have the front edge just how you want it, inspect the back edge with the loupe. You will see a burr running the length of the blade, this must be removed or the burr will continue to curl over and leave you with the worst edge ever.
I remove this burr with a single swipe of my 4000 grit waterstone, blade laid with the angle flat on the stone and moved from front to back, then reinspect with the loupe.
If you pooch the edge a shim can be placed under the blade to make it contact with the ice again.
If you watch the blade in action it is not cutting the ice by shaving it from the center of the blade to the outside edge. A superbly sharpened blade will give off curled ice shavings just like a finely sharpened plane or chisel does.
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I also sharpen my own auger blades, but would not recommend it to most.
First, if you try, mark the edge to be sharpened with a black wide tip sharpie so you can see what you have done and not done. Do not move the stone from the front of the blade to the back. Move the stone along the front edge of the blade keeping careful watch of the angle and keeping it the same from end to end. When you think you have a sharp edge, use a 10x loupe to inspect the edge. Use the sharpie to mark where more work needs to be done. When you have the front edge just how you want it, inspect the back edge with the loupe. You will see a burr running the length of the blade, this must be removed or the burr will continue to curl over and leave you with the worst edge ever.
I remove this burr with a single swipe of my 4000 grit waterstone, blade laid with the angle flat on the stone and moved from front to back, then reinspect with the loupe.
If you pooch the edge a shim can be placed under the blade to make it contact with the ice again.
If you watch the blade in action it is not cutting the ice by shaving it from the center of the blade to the outside edge. A superbly sharpened blade will give off curled ice shavings just like a finely sharpened plane or chisel does.
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