04-17-2007, 08:26 PM
I noticed this thread and thought i'd jump in on the fun. [
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I had the same questions about fluorocarbon myself, and I tested the theory back when I lived on Guam. My buddy had just spooled his reel up with Cajun Red, and he had another spooled with green Berkely Big game. I had my reels spooled with pink and Clear Ande. We headed out to the water armed with our skin diving gear and went for a little swim with the 4 different color lines, as well as a strip of Seagar Fluorocarbon Leader material. I was very surprised just how much the fluoro blended into the water versus the other lines. The Cajun red is, of course, a hoax. It stood out worse than all the other line put together. LOL The clear Ande wasn't so bad, but the fluorocarbon was definately the clearest. From about 3 feet away, I couldn't even see it underwater. This is 20 lb test by the way. Some of the mono was heavier, but I don't recall specifics. The reason it's so clear in the water that it's light refraction rate is nearly identicle to water. In other words, it distorts light in the same maner that water does, thus making it appear as if it's not there.
Fluorocarbon is also non-porus, which is what gives it it's lesser stretch and allows it to sink a little quicker than mono does in the water. I've also found that it depends on what pound test fluoro you're talking about before you begin to really see it's abrasion resistant qualities. Anything over 20lb test i've found to be pretty darn tough. Anything under that, it almost seems that mono is tougher on that note. It has it's advantages and di
vantages. I've not lost any fish due to slipping or breaking knots. Maybe a different type of knot is in order. The "san diego jam knot" is perfect for all lines, and is very strong. I use it quite often, to include the Trilene knot.
![[Image: san_diego_jam_knot.jpg]](http://www.netknots.com/assets/images/san_diego_jam_knot.jpg)
![[Image: trilenef.gif]](http://www.netknots.com/assets/images/trilenef.gif)
A uni to uni is OK for joining lines of the same OD, but not my first choice for joining braid to a leader material. I prefer to use the albright knot.
![[Image: albright_special.jpg]](http://www.netknots.com/assets/images/albright_special.jpg)
I use super braid on many of my reels, depending on the application. I prefer Power Pro or Stren Super braid; but all I use now is Power Pro. I use braid when I want to down size my reel size for larger fish, or, when i'm deep water bottom fishing and I'm looking for solid hook sets. Alot of times if I use braid to get line compacity, i'll put a 50-100 yard topshot of mono on there with an albright knot for the "shock resistant" qualities. Braid is unforgiving when it comes to those species of fish that like to rock and roll. []
I will say this though. For most species of fish, fluorocarbon is kinda "over kill" in a sense because of the cost versus effectiveness. But, when it comes to species like, tuna for instance, fluorocarbon is quite a needed addition when they've got lock jaw. It really can make a difference when fishing gets tough.
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] I had the same questions about fluorocarbon myself, and I tested the theory back when I lived on Guam. My buddy had just spooled his reel up with Cajun Red, and he had another spooled with green Berkely Big game. I had my reels spooled with pink and Clear Ande. We headed out to the water armed with our skin diving gear and went for a little swim with the 4 different color lines, as well as a strip of Seagar Fluorocarbon Leader material. I was very surprised just how much the fluoro blended into the water versus the other lines. The Cajun red is, of course, a hoax. It stood out worse than all the other line put together. LOL The clear Ande wasn't so bad, but the fluorocarbon was definately the clearest. From about 3 feet away, I couldn't even see it underwater. This is 20 lb test by the way. Some of the mono was heavier, but I don't recall specifics. The reason it's so clear in the water that it's light refraction rate is nearly identicle to water. In other words, it distorts light in the same maner that water does, thus making it appear as if it's not there.
Fluorocarbon is also non-porus, which is what gives it it's lesser stretch and allows it to sink a little quicker than mono does in the water. I've also found that it depends on what pound test fluoro you're talking about before you begin to really see it's abrasion resistant qualities. Anything over 20lb test i've found to be pretty darn tough. Anything under that, it almost seems that mono is tougher on that note. It has it's advantages and di
vantages. I've not lost any fish due to slipping or breaking knots. Maybe a different type of knot is in order. The "san diego jam knot" is perfect for all lines, and is very strong. I use it quite often, to include the Trilene knot. A uni to uni is OK for joining lines of the same OD, but not my first choice for joining braid to a leader material. I prefer to use the albright knot.
I use super braid on many of my reels, depending on the application. I prefer Power Pro or Stren Super braid; but all I use now is Power Pro. I use braid when I want to down size my reel size for larger fish, or, when i'm deep water bottom fishing and I'm looking for solid hook sets. Alot of times if I use braid to get line compacity, i'll put a 50-100 yard topshot of mono on there with an albright knot for the "shock resistant" qualities. Braid is unforgiving when it comes to those species of fish that like to rock and roll. [
] I will say this though. For most species of fish, fluorocarbon is kinda "over kill" in a sense because of the cost versus effectiveness. But, when it comes to species like, tuna for instance, fluorocarbon is quite a needed addition when they've got lock jaw. It really can make a difference when fishing gets tough.
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