03-23-2007, 01:30 PM
You've already gotten alot of great tips and information, but I think i'll add my $1.25 in the mix.
Mmmm, lets see. Where to start. OK, rod and reel selection.......
Though Dave is right about the complications a baitcaster can have, they are completely fail proof if they are properly adjusted for the weight of your rig. ALL baitcasting and conventional reels have what is called a break. It controls the tention on the spool during casting. So, your worries of a back lash is nonexistant. Also, though baitcasting reels can (not always) require more maintenence than a spinning reel, they can hold up to alot more stress. Now, i'm not saying there aren't spinning reels that can hold up, i'm saying you take a 50 dollar casting reel and a 50 dollar spinning reel, and the casting reel will keep cranking long after the spinning reels gears have been shredded. Now that idea doesn't apply to all, just alot. You can buy a Van Staal spinning reel that will out pull, out drag, and out last any casting reel on the market; but the price tag is well over 500 dollars. So, lets keep it realistic, shall we? You can, however, get more distance with a spinning reel since there is no resistance during the casting process. But, a seasoned baitcaster can get pretty darn close to the same distance, it just takes practice.
If I were you, i'd go with a reel that can hold right around 200 yards of line and slap it on an Ugly Stix. You can get your Ugly Stix at wally world, but you might want to consider shopping elsewhere for your reel. I'm surprised TubeN2 hasn't mentioned it yet, but Okuma makes a great spinning reel called the Coronado. I just bought the CD50 version which would be perfect for you along with a few hundred yards of a quality braid line.
Braid line will keep you from loosing so many rigs and lures as well. It's wicked strong and super sensitive.
Also, you may want to consider getting one of those castable fish finder thingies. It's a big advantage being able to see the structure, knowing the water depth, and even being able to locate bait and target fish.
If you decide to do some bottom fishing with live bait or what ever, you can make a slip rig that will keep your bait just off the bottom, off the snags and in the fish's face. All you have to do is thread a large bobber with no stoppers on your main line. Attach your hook to the bottom. Strip out you line to the depth you want and tie on a rubber band. The bobber will sit on your hook until you cast out. When you cast out, the hook will sink and the bobber will stop it where ever you tied on your rubber band. You could also thread on your bobber and tie on a swivel. Then add a 2' leader to the other swivel and then your hook. This way you could add a weight to the main line after the bobber if you needed to. There are alot of ways to do it, but they are all effective; especially for big cats hanging out over rocks piles. [cool]
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Mmmm, lets see. Where to start. OK, rod and reel selection.......
Though Dave is right about the complications a baitcaster can have, they are completely fail proof if they are properly adjusted for the weight of your rig. ALL baitcasting and conventional reels have what is called a break. It controls the tention on the spool during casting. So, your worries of a back lash is nonexistant. Also, though baitcasting reels can (not always) require more maintenence than a spinning reel, they can hold up to alot more stress. Now, i'm not saying there aren't spinning reels that can hold up, i'm saying you take a 50 dollar casting reel and a 50 dollar spinning reel, and the casting reel will keep cranking long after the spinning reels gears have been shredded. Now that idea doesn't apply to all, just alot. You can buy a Van Staal spinning reel that will out pull, out drag, and out last any casting reel on the market; but the price tag is well over 500 dollars. So, lets keep it realistic, shall we? You can, however, get more distance with a spinning reel since there is no resistance during the casting process. But, a seasoned baitcaster can get pretty darn close to the same distance, it just takes practice.
If I were you, i'd go with a reel that can hold right around 200 yards of line and slap it on an Ugly Stix. You can get your Ugly Stix at wally world, but you might want to consider shopping elsewhere for your reel. I'm surprised TubeN2 hasn't mentioned it yet, but Okuma makes a great spinning reel called the Coronado. I just bought the CD50 version which would be perfect for you along with a few hundred yards of a quality braid line.
Braid line will keep you from loosing so many rigs and lures as well. It's wicked strong and super sensitive.
Also, you may want to consider getting one of those castable fish finder thingies. It's a big advantage being able to see the structure, knowing the water depth, and even being able to locate bait and target fish.
If you decide to do some bottom fishing with live bait or what ever, you can make a slip rig that will keep your bait just off the bottom, off the snags and in the fish's face. All you have to do is thread a large bobber with no stoppers on your main line. Attach your hook to the bottom. Strip out you line to the depth you want and tie on a rubber band. The bobber will sit on your hook until you cast out. When you cast out, the hook will sink and the bobber will stop it where ever you tied on your rubber band. You could also thread on your bobber and tie on a swivel. Then add a 2' leader to the other swivel and then your hook. This way you could add a weight to the main line after the bobber if you needed to. There are alot of ways to do it, but they are all effective; especially for big cats hanging out over rocks piles. [cool]
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