Project 7.3

[Bduck]

Been getting an engine code for a while now but procrastinated its repair since my truck hasn't seen much duty for a couple of months. The code didn't trigger a check engine light but indicated with a code reader in the start circuit pointing directly to glow plug circuit (diesel engine). When warm weather was about start was ok but would give off a slight blue smoke and clear up immediately. One of the first items to change is a start relay to the glow plugs which I had one to go south before. This relay is also recommended to replace whenever glow plugs are to be replaced. I've had the glow plugs replaced before but its been over 100K miles since, I had a shop to do it which labor charges dug deep into the pocket combined with other work at that time performed. I avoided doing glow plugs knowingly they were under the valve covers as with the fuel injectors. Now, labor alone to replace G-plugs is $500. Since colder outside temps have set in the truck has become harder to start. Once started it would buck kicking out a heavy blue smoke until all cylinders would clear up idling correctly. I decided to take on the task as a 2-day project parking my boat outside and garaging the truck. G-Plugs $130 for 8ea, valve cover gaskets with internal harnesses for injectors & G-Plug connectors $60ea, truck mileage is over 207K. It is by recommendation the harness be replaced as it breaks down over time and getting disturbed during removal process. The harness is either sold separately from valve cover gasket or mounted on the gasket. As I did the project, I found that it wasn't as bad as my thoughts indicated. The only issue I had was stepping up on a step ladder to reach over on all of the work and kneeling on top of radiator to reach far back of the engine. I have terrible knees which enduring the pain afterwards wasn't pleasant. Starting issues resolved, no more bucking or blue smoke.
I have 2 other projects I'm lining up adding to my to do list. One is resealing the oil pan dipstick holder mounted in the side of oil pan (leaking) and the other is the low oil pressure pump (LPOP) behind the harmonic balancer. The LPOP I can purchase either the common stock part for $100 or an upgrade which increases volume flow for over $500 which I've elected to do the upgrade. I don't have plans to buy a newer truck as this is my last one and wanting to further the longevity.

[wiperhunter2]

You have done well, keeping that beast going for over 200K and doing all the work yourself must be tough but with the high cost to repair them at the shop, I don't blame you for doing as much as possible yourself. It almost makes you wonder if buying that car repair insurance would be worth it. 

[Bduck]

Hey Curt, doing those projects helps saves some money that can be put fwd. into other projects. Sometimes I don't mind doing them but physically it can take its toll nowadays depending what's involve. My wife bought into the home repair insurance about 3yrs ago only to get stung by them. I won't buy auto repair insurance for reasons like the home repair. I also find several times I need to buy an auto part there is 2-3 options offered to extend a warranty mostly when a purchase is online. When there is a local purchase options can be either for a part remanufactured that has a 1yr warranty or pay extra for a new part with a lifetime. I've done the lifetime from NAPA for an alternator which I have used 4 times over the years. Another time was before Checker Auto were still around, I replaced a starter with a 1yr warranty on my old Bronco. Headed to Calif a couple months later and made a stop for gas in Winnemucca, Nv. The vehicle would not start, starter went Kaputs, so I was lucky there was a Checker Auto locally. They had a lifetime on a starter on their shelf, since the starter on my vehicle was still in warranty it was used towards new starter. Those folks at Checker brought me the new starter after making the purchase over the phone with credit card. I always carried tools and was able to replace the starter.

[wiperhunter2]

They really talk those auto insurances up on TV, like they will fix anything that goes wrong but I'm always leery about buying into things like that.

[Bduck]

I committed to the purchase of an upgrade low oil press pump (LPOP). The benefits are better & quicker oil press on delivery to fuel nozzles at engine start. This high-volume unit supplies more volume to handle the higher demands of larger high-pressure oil pumps, Most importantly, it will provide a better supply of lubricating oil to protect engine with better lubrication and cooling to main bearings and piston oilers. Once at idle oil press increase is at least by 2psi which will be difficult to see on the indicator and as much as 15psi at higher rpm. Also, since I have to remove the radiator to change the oil pump, I have a new radiator on order. The future holds a possible upgrade in engine oil but requires an in-depth study for a 207K mileage engine.

[wiperhunter2]

I committed to the purchase of an upgrade low oil press pump (LPOP). The benefits are better & quicker oil press on delivery to fuel nozzles at engine start. This high-volume unit supplies more volume to handle the higher demands of larger high-pressure oil pumps, Most importantly, it will provide a better supply of lubricating oil to protect engine with better lubrication and cooling to main bearings and piston oilers. Once at idle oil press increase is at least by 2psi which will be difficult to see on the indicator and as much as 15psi at higher rpm. Also, since I have to remove the radiator to change the oil pump, I have a new radiator on order. The future holds a possible upgrade in engine oil but requires an in-depth study for a 207K mileage engine.

Can't say I've ever heard of an upgrade in eng oil, is that like going from Walmart brand oil to Quaker state oil or something totally different?

[Bduck]

Going to a synthetic oil is an upgrade from conventional. What I have been looking into is Schaffer’s oil for diesel engines. I’m still looking into this oil, studied their results with engine disassembly after a very high amount of mileage & reviews. This oil one doesn’t hear much about vs the everyday advertisement of other brand names.  I’ve always used a decent oil filter so I know that I won’t have an issue there. 

[wiperhunter2]

Going to a synthetic oil is an upgrade from conventional. What I have been looking into is Schaffer’s oil for diesel engines. I’m still looking into this oil, studied their results with engine disassembly after a very high amount of mileage & reviews. This oil one doesn’t hear much about vs the everyday advertisement of other brand names.  I’ve always used a decent oil filter so I know that I won’t have an issue there. 

OK, that makes sense but I can't sy I've ever heard of Schaffer's oil, is it new? I don't know how accurate this is but I heard that on older engines, when you go from a conventional oil to synthetic oil, there can be an issue with leaks, have you ever heard that?

[Bduck]

Curt, I have also heard of the oil seals leaking after a conversion. That was put out a long time ago, since, there has been an improvement in seal manufacturing. That is just one part of the reasoning I'm looking into is that. Another is the higher mileage accumulated on my truck but what I keep hearing its just getting broke in. Schaffers oil is also new to me, what I have been finding is good results. I don't know how long they have been around but it sounds like they have been around in the industrial business for a while. Sent email to Schaffers with Q's and awaiting A's.

[Bduck]

Here is a little history of the 7.3L Diesel. I have gone thru some of the woes of power reduction or loss of power because of sensors. As recommended install new OEM sensors staying away from aftermarket.

What Makes The 2000 Ford F-350 So Special?

7.3L Power Stroke Diesel V8 Engine
The engine found in the 2000 diesel-powered Super Duty is the first of the Power Stroke family, and the first diesel engine to reach 500lbft of torque. Also known as the Navistar T444E, built by Navistar International, this was a flagship engine from 1994 to 2003, when it was discontinued as a result of California's noise regulations. A direct-injection diesel engine with a dry weight of 920lbs and a power output of 235 horses in 1999. By the time the engine was retired, it could produce 275 hp when paired with a manual transmission.
This engine's legendary durability is owed to a few key factors. The cast-iron engine block and cylinder heads don't crack easily, especially when you consider that this engine is rather underpowered by modern standards and probably works hard for most of its life. The 7.3's relatively modest output means they weren't trying to push this engine to its absolute limit. Forged steel rods and crankshaft no doubt helped to keep the 7.3 going, as well. It's important to note that these rods were replaced with less robust powered metal rods in 2001, which makes it one of the 7.3L Power Stroke's years to avoid.

Ford 7.3-Liter Power Stroke Years to Avoid: Navigating the Pitfalls
Even one of Ford's most reliable engines had a few faults.

You've likely noticed that, when you're reading about high mileage, it's usually a work truck, right? The 7.3L Power Stroke has no place in a production sedan, so the fact that this engine primarily made its way into the hands of working men and women has no doubt helped to contribute to its reputation. When your vehicle is your bread and butter, you're less tempted to put your oil changes off or keep riding with a dirty air filter. A dirty air filter is especially detrimental to a diesel's health, as it causes the engine to run hot.

As reliable as the 7.3 Power Stroke may be, it's not entirely without issue. Sensor failure has been known to result in engine stall, the fuel filter housing has been known to crack and cause fuel leaks, the turbocharger up-pipes can leak from the joints, and the exhaust back-pressure valve was known to close up in the cold. Navistar continued to troubleshoot these issues throughout the 7.3's lifetime.

2000 Ford F-350 7.3L Engine Specs

Engine Size
7.3-liter V8

Power
235 hp

Torque
500lb-ft

Bore
4.11 inches

Stroke
4.18 inches

Cylinder Block
Cast iron

Cylinder Head
Cast iron

Compression ratio
17.5:1

[Fowl-Hook]

Here is a little history of the 7.3L Diesel. I have gone thru some of the woes of power reduction or loss of power because of sensors. As recommended install new OEM sensors staying away from aftermarket.

What Makes The 2000 Ford F-350 So Special?

7.3L Power Stroke Diesel V8 Engine
The engine found in the 2000 diesel-powered Super Duty is the first of the Power Stroke family, and the first diesel engine to reach 500lbft of torque. Also known as the Navistar T444E, built by Navistar International, this was a flagship engine from 1994 to 2003, when it was discontinued as a result of California's noise regulations. A direct-injection diesel engine with a dry weight of 920lbs and a power output of 235 horses in 1999. By the time the engine was retired, it could produce 275 hp when paired with a manual transmission.
This engine's legendary durability is owed to a few key factors. The cast-iron engine block and cylinder heads don't crack easily, especially when you consider that this engine is rather underpowered by modern standards and probably works hard for most of its life. The 7.3's relatively modest output means they weren't trying to push this engine to its absolute limit. Forged steel rods and crankshaft no doubt helped to keep the 7.3 going, as well. It's important to note that these rods were replaced with less robust powered metal rods in 2001, which makes it one of the 7.3L Power Stroke's years to avoid.

Ford 7.3-Liter Power Stroke Years to Avoid: Navigating the Pitfalls
Even one of Ford's most reliable engines had a few faults.

You've likely noticed that, when you're reading about high mileage, it's usually a work truck, right? The 7.3L Power Stroke has no place in a production sedan, so the fact that this engine primarily made its way into the hands of working men and women has no doubt helped to contribute to its reputation. When your vehicle is your bread and butter, you're less tempted to put your oil changes off or keep riding with a dirty air filter. A dirty air filter is especially detrimental to a diesel's health, as it causes the engine to run hot.

As reliable as the 7.3 Power Stroke may be, it's not entirely without issue. Sensor failure has been known to result in engine stall, the fuel filter housing has been known to crack and cause fuel leaks, the turbocharger up-pipes can leak from the joints, and the exhaust back-pressure valve was known to close up in the cold. Navistar continued to troubleshoot these issues throughout the 7.3's lifetime.

2000 Ford F-350 7.3L Engine Specs

Engine Size
7.3-liter V8

Power
235 hp

Torque
500lb-ft

Bore
4.11 inches

Stroke
4.18 inches

Cylinder Block
Cast iron

Cylinder Head
Cast iron

Compression ratio
17.5:1

Mine is a 99 with 250000 miles, bought new it has been very reliable. I appreciate the info!

[Bduck]

I am now taking the task at hand and started removing the radiator and fan clutch to gain access to the oil pump. I have my new oil pump & radiator ready for install. The aging process my body reminds me that these tasks were once simple, with the cramping of the arthritic hands, bad knees & back I'll keep plugging away until walking becomes a challenge itself. Many good fishing days still ahead.
A good find-when serpentine belt removed it was separated at along an outer track edge. This belt wasn't really that old as I have pushed limits on one before this. Oh well, just another dollar spent for a good cause and furthering a piece of mind.



 

[wiperhunter2]

That's not good news on the belt, how many miles did you have on it, since it was last replaced?

[Bduck]

That belt is about 6 or 7yrs old replaced at the Ogden Ford dealer which was Westland at that time. I put the truck in the shop for a coolant flush, water pump replacement, and new belt. 

[wiperhunter2]

That belt is about 6 or 7yrs old replaced at the Ogden Ford dealer which was Westland at that time. I put the truck in the shop for a coolant flush, water pump replacement, and new belt. 

Could you see anything that might have caused it to split like that? It almost looks like something cut it.

[Bduck]

The belt has 7 ribs with 6 channels for the pulleys to guide with. It could be a manufacture flaw with a weak section, no indication of any damage at all. 

[Bduck]

Yesterday 12-19 I installed oil pump (LPOP) and new radiator. It took about 3 good cranking's to get oil pump to prime & pressurize the system. When truck first fired up it was bucking and clearing its throat. It was a rough idle for 10 minutes eventually smoothing out. Once up to operating temperature, then took truck for a run at various speeds for oil pressure. Truck ran great. Today 12-20 I started truck to run to the store and could hear a loud ticking sound. My neighbor across the street heard it from his house. We both were looking to see where it was coming from finding belt tensioner was the culprit. I concluded this could be the reason why my previous serpentine belt separated. Another $100 bill gonzo. Received my new OEM fan clutch today so tomorrow since weather is warmer than normal, this should be final finish to a couple of maintenance issues.

[wiperhunter2]

Bummer on having to sink more $$ into it but at least you found this problem before you were out on the road and far away from home.

[Bduck]

Bummer on having to sink more $$ into it but at least you found this problem before you were out on the road and far away from home.

The recent 2 trips I made to the Nelle I heard the ticking sound a couple of times at slower speeds. Both times I checked under the hood, but it wasn't there. Hate gremlins that come & go. After having to release/remove belt with tensioner and reinstalling belt brought back a more prominent none stop sound with the tensioner. Replaced tensioner and all is good now. Usually when I break down its always 100+ miles from home. If a temporary fix couldn't be done on the side of the road its a 2-3hr wait for a tow truck and get you back home. $$$$    

[dubob]

Roger,

Your current adventure with home repairs was a reminder of my vehicle owner experiences.  In the last 40 years, I've had exactly one highway breakdown.  That was with my very first/very last diesel engine pickup truck.  I lost 3 fuel injectors 5 miles east of Evanston, WY with just over 100,000 miles on it.  The truck went into limp mode, and I drove it into the Chevrolet Dealership in Evanston.  My home go-to mechanic recommended that I replace all 8 injectors, so I did.  About $8,000 later, I drove it home.  I traded it about 4 or 5 month's after that for a 6.0L Chevrolet gas engine and have never looked back.  Since I retired in 2004, I trade up to a newer year truck about every 4 years.  I look for a 2/3 year old truck that is a Certified Pre-owned.  I'm happy for any of you that are happy to own diesel engine trucks.  But once was more than enough for me.