G'day Michael, Thor and other YFT hunter's. <br><br>Just thought I would add a few other comments to Thor's great outline and especially in terms of hook sizes matching the baits, live - plastic - or otherwise. <br><br>When selecting lead head jigs, check that the hooks are forged. Tuna schools run in different sizes so make sure they are up to the job and same for dropper loop rigs and hooks etc. Otherwise it can be "hasta la vista baby". <br><br>My favourite jig hooks are Mustads and are the only jig hook up to the job IMO. Either them, or what we call a double molded lead head with a seperate hook insert and HD stainless eye loop for real Tuna toe cutters.. <br><br>As mentioned, iron jigs are a must and on the rear I like single SS forged hooks (Japanese) similar to the 7691 Mustads, but heavier in the shaft. Hot hooks! <br><br>Burnin Thumbs!<br><br>Steve B<br>Moderator - Lures/Baits<br><A HREF="http://www.demonjigs.com" target="_new">http://www.demonjigs.com</A>
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I am going with the heavier line (and a coil of flourocarbon leader material). <br><br>Yellowtail are structure-oriented fish. They dive for the nearest available patch of line busting cover (kelp, rocks, reefs or whatever) and swim head first into it as soon as they feel the hook. They will do the same by diving to the bottom if nothing else is around. It seems like those yellows could find a kelp stringer in the middle of the Mojave desert once they are hooked. Even a small 8 to 10 pound yellow will pull with surprising strength. You will appreciate your pulling power using 20 lb and 30 lb main line (minimum) to turn the fish away from cover and head them to the boat. Use the Albright knot, or one of the Braid knots, to splice 3 feet of 30 lb and 40 lb FC respectively onto your main line. Besides the greater breaking strength the lines in heavier tests generally have increased abrasion resistance. That's a real plus pulling the yellows out from inside the kelp stringers or kelp paddy. <br><br>So use a heavier line, then puuuuuullll !<br><br>Another suggestion is a 4:1 reel in your arsenal. The rubber and bait and surface iron fish do not require the high speed 5:1 or 6:1 retrieve ratios. You will thank yourself when your winching that big mossback up from 100 feet straight down. High speed reels are great for ripping the iron along fast enough to entice the bite. . . but they really put the hurt on you when it comes to short stroking in those last dozen feet on a big fish without letting the fish turn his head when you drop the rod tip to put a wrap on line on the reel. <br><br>I like the clear lines. Its not unusual to have a night or a grey light bite on the yellows. Colored lines are invisible to the angler at night, even under the boat lights. Trying to watch your line and that of your buddy at night, in a hot bite, so as to avoid tangles is too hard with the pink, blue and smoke colored lines. Use clear to stay clear.<br><br>Hooks gotta fit the bait. It take a big 'chovy to pull that 1/0 hook; keep some 1 and 2's around for the times when the bait is small or when the fish just prefer anchovies. Contrarywise a 5/0 probably is not too large for some of the mackeral and squid baits. <br><br>I do not think that you can use a bait too big for yellows. Be careful you do not use a hook too big for the bait. If the hook can turn into the bait (e.g., you notice that your hook got embedded in the gillplate or eye of your nose-hooked anchovy when retrieved), it is too big.<br><br>Now just find a fishy spot and hold on. <br><br>Good luck.<br><br>Roger Sheaks