ultimate burbot hook for vertical jigging.

[Duckbutter]

Ahhh, burbot. In my pursuit of finding the perfect vertical jig head for burbot, i waxed up three different styles, made molds of each, and these are the first two pours of each. I have had to deal with some personal issues and have not been on in six months, but I would value your opinions on these. Pardon my inactivity.

Also, Tubedude, thanks again for meeting with me this spring to give me advice big helped with the pours.

I would prefer vinyl paint over powder paint. Do you guys have a preference or recommendation for a base and glow?


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[Kent]

I had Pat make me some jig heads just like that for mack fishing. I found that it is much more difficult to put on the tubes, than on regular jig heads, and also it is difficult to get them to hang horizontal. That said, I still occasionally use them.
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[fearfish]

Them are some really cool jig head my two cents is to move the bottom ring a little bit more forward so they can hang straight when u have something below it and are u selling them
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[TubeDude]

[#0000FF]Lookin' good. Now you gotta figure out how to decorate them with the tubes or swim baits...and how to work them in the depths.

As you know, I prefer using the vinyl jig paints and finishing with epoxy. The powder coat paints are simple to use but tend to pop off like peanut shells the first time you ding a rock or something else solid.

Attaching some pics to show others how the "double hookers" are put together...and that sometimes it works better with the front hook down instead of having both facing up. Guys who watch macks attack tubes on camera are surprised to see that they sometimes take them "head on". That's the reason for the dual hook setup.

By the way, those "spearpoint" heads in my pics are much easier to rig with tubes. Moistening the lead with some oily fish scent first makes them slide on easier too.

Also attaching a pic of some ice jigs I made up with the double hook thing. You can use two pieces of sweetener...or only one. But by properly positioning the hook eye you get a good "horizontal hold".
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[ntrl_brn_rebel]

They work good... We put some together with Canyon Plastics a while back and were surprised how well they worked








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[Duckbutter]

[quote fearfish]Them are some really cool jig head my two cents is to move the bottom ring a little bit more forward so they can hang straight when u have something below it and are u selling them[/quote]

The problem is my sprue hole is actually in the belly of the beast, so to speak, which limits where I can have the ring.

I am really excited to get more of these rolling and painted. Is there a band of glow paint that is preferred. I haven't considered selling them yet, as I am new to this, but am considering putting "packets" together for people to create their own. I waxed up my own designs, then made the molds out of a very stable plaster used in casting dental crowns. I am interested to see if the quality of the molds hold up over 100+ pours.

Tubedude, thanks for sharing your photos and your input. Always appreciated.

I am just hoping the double hook rig increases the success of jawjackers and automatic fisherman from 50% to 80%+.

I know not all epoxy glow paint is created equal (density and concentration of glow particles). Any brands I should nab and try?
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[fearfish]

I don't know much about glow paint but I do dig them jig heads I love how there is the option to put somthing below them
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[Trclements]

Do you mind posting some pics of your completed molds?
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[TubeDude]

"I know not all epoxy glow paint is created equal (density and concentration of glow particles). Any brands I should nab and try?"

[#0000FF]I have been disappointed by all of the ready-made glow paints I have tried. None of them produce a really bright glow and none of them holds a light charge very long. Also, even though they are listed as "orange" or whatever they usually produce a greenish glow.

The green glow is the brightest and longest lasting of all the glow colors. And is a good color for most fish under the ice or after dark...or in stained water.

I make my own "glow paint" by mixing some glow powder (strontium alumino silicate) with clear gloss vinyl jig paint...much as I do with glitters. You apply it over white or chartreuse painted jigs and then finish with glitters, paint patterns and epoxy coats. It is a high quality (expensive) stuff that keeps a glow charge for up to 24 hours and glows very brightly.

The best place to get the good stuff is at [url "http://www.kosmickreations.net/html/glow_in_the_dark_powder.html"]KOSMIC KREATIONS[/url]. But as I mentioned, it is spendy. If you merely want to try a small amount, I bought a pound of the stuff at a discount last year so I could have some to share with fellow jigaholics if they wanted to save some money. It does go a long ways so on a cost per jig basis it is not all that much.

I am attaching a picture of the powder and clear gloss vinyl...and the mixing cups I use. It takes some practice to get the mix right and you have to keep it properly thinned to get a good coat without overdoing it. The particles of the powder stay in a colloidal suspension and not a solution so you need to mix small amounts and keep stirring as you work with it. Requires experience and attention but well worth the effort with the super results.
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[Therapist]

Component Systems is by far the best paint to use. Their clear coat can be mixed per TD with the glow powder. Since it is water based, you don't have to use it all when mixed.

As to your sprue. Move it off center so that it hits the mold at an angle, below the front of the jig. That way you can put the ring where you want w/o having to deal with the sprue. It should not make a difference in the pour as long as your lead is the proper temp !!

One last thing, I have several blank molds ( Do It ) if you desire to make your molds permanent for production. PM if interested.

Check Barlow's for the best selection and price on Component Systems paint.

[Duckbutter]

I will post pictures of the molds after I get home from work. These are the three designs I have waxed up, and I prefer the bottom one, which actually does have a centered ring on the bottom.

I really enjoy waxing these. If any of you guys have an idea that you haven't seen in lead, let me know and give a design. I may be able to whip something up between patients with down time.

Thanks for the info on the paint.

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[Duckbutter]

Sorry I haven't posted pics of my new and improved molds. I am chatting with a relative that is a patent lawyer, and am considering patenting two things associated with this. That being said, I was able to pour up some more, although I haven't had much time to work it out. I need to pull some early mornings to fiddle with some wax ups. The balance on a couple need to be adjusted slightly.

Tubedude, soon as my wife gets me some allowance money I will put in a small order of that glow powder. I remember seeing it this spring, and I want the good stuff on these bad boys. Are you blending the powder in a 5 minute epoxy, and putting it over a white base paint?


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[Duckbutter]

Sorry TD, that wasn't very clear. Do you have a preferred brand of clear gloss vinyl jig paint? Are they all pretty similar as far as durability, and do I need a drying wheel?
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[TubeDude]

[quote Duckbutter]Sorry TD, that wasn't very clear. Do you have a preferred brand of clear gloss vinyl jig paint? Are they all pretty similar as far as durability, and do I need a drying wheel?[/quote]

[#0000FF]About the only vinyl jig paints available through our tackle purveyors are the CS Components. I get mine through Barlows but they are also available at Cabelas (sometimes) and Sportsmans. I use a lot and buy it by the pint. But a 4 oz. bottle will last a while for average use. I buy the thinner by the pint also.

Mixing the powder into the gloss is a learned thing. Too thick and it globs on unevenly. Too thin and it takes two coats to get a good glow finish. Just right and it flows on smoothly and dries to a nice coat.

It does require rotation for a minute or so to keep the gloss/powder coat from "migrating" before it sets up firmly enough to hang for final curing. No need for a drying wheel. I just use a pair of hemostats to clamp the hook at the right angle before applying the glow coat. I keep rotating as I work the coat on evenly and then continue rotating for another minute or so. You can tell when it is set well enough to hang when the appearance becomes dull and dryish. Oh yeah, I also keep a heat gun on my desk as I am working with glow or glitter and I rotate the coated jig heads about 10 to 12 inches away from the head gun...on low...for about 45 seconds. Don't use the heat gun too close or too long or you will get a sudden bubbly marshmallow around your jig head.

When you get ready for your glow powder, I will be happy to sell you a small amount at my cost...cheaper at the 1 pound rate...with no shipping. And I'll be happy to demo the process for mixing and applying the glow.

And yes, I primarily apply the glow coat over plain white or chartreuse. Those colors both show through the glow fairly well and the glow is bright. If you put it over a darker color you lose a lot of the brightness.
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