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I have no idea. The one I have always used is a Group #27 Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate:105Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F):575Reserve Capacity (RC):180 min.
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That looks like plenty of battery for a half day or even a whole day of less than constant trolling.
The above is based on the assumption that you're riding a one man type kick boat.
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[cool][#0000ff]The size, weight and amp/hours (35) are about the same as the wheelchair battery I started with a couple of years ago. It will be fine as a short hop battery or for a run back to the car if you are not too far away. But it will not run you around for a half day of fishing and trolling and then get you back to your vehicle.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Most electric motor manufacturers recommend that you use a battery with at least 80 to 100 amp hours of storage capacity. That is a series 24 to series 27 sized battery...50 to 65 pounds in weight. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]A C2 Endura battery suggests that it will draw 30 amps per hour at high speed. But what it doesn't tell you is that it still sucks the power at lower speed...with the extra power going into heat rather than propulsion. Running a motor on low speed really doesn't save all that much juice. And if you only have 35 amps to begin with you don't have a lot of leeway.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]There is one factor that float tubers need to be aware of too. That is that your motor and battery will propel your float tube much more slowly than if you were riding on top of the water in a pontoon or small boat. So you can't go as far on the same amount of battery in a float tube.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]There is no hard and fast formula. You just need to be aware that size matters (battery) and bigger is better. You always want to have some reserve power left...just in case. And the battery does not keep putting out power at the same high rate and then quit. It will begin to slow down until it is not turning the props at all...even when the meter shows there is power left in the battery.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You will need to make some test trips and keep track of how much you run the battery. Check it with a volt meter before the trip and after you get off the water. Starting voltage should be up somewhere about 13...after a top off charge. And it can be anywhere from 12.5 volts down to 11.9 volts when you return. The key will be how many amps will it put out. Low voltage and low amps will leave you dead in the water. Bigger is better.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If you can get a good deal on a good deep cycle marine battery I would not go lower than a series 24. It will move you just as fast as the larger 27 but will not last as long.[/#0000ff]
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I do have a close friend that runs two wheel chair batteries parallel. He is older and said it is easier to lift these batteries one at a time instead of the bigger.
If you can get two for a good price, that might work.
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That's a good idea. I think I'll buy one for now and see how it suits me. I can always carry a second.
While I have your attention, do you have any Strawberry tips for me? I'm headed there next week and I haven't fished it in 10 years.
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When I go out I'm going to take my amp meter and find out for sure how many amps I'm pulling.
Do you run your fish finder off your motor battery or do you use a separate one?
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[cool][#0000ff]You can run the sonar off the big 12 volt with no problem. However, I prefer to run my sonar off a small 4.4 amp 12 v battery inside the pocket of my tube. That keeps the wires all undercover and not stretched outside to catch on anything.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]It's a matter of personal preference and how you have everything set up.[/#0000ff]
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After a sleepless night worrying about if the 35 amp battery would be enough, this morning I ordered a group 24. $12 more money (no biggie) but 20 lbs heavier (ouch!). I figured there will be a high probability that my son will want me to tow him around from time to time so that's why I went with a bigger one.
Thanks for the replies.
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] Only had a couple times I found myself rowing back to shore.