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[font "Comic Sans MS"][#000080][size 3]I have a 14.5 foot aluminun valco boat thats close to 20 years old but is a wonderful little boat for me. My question is I have replaced, epoxy'd, and have tried to seal loose rivets to a somewhat sucess, but does anyone have any other ideas or secrets to stop these from weeping.[/size][/#000080][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][#000080][size 3]Second question is I am wanting to paint it this spring, since I don't have access to a marine store where I live what do I need to order online etc to paint my boat, and what steps are involved like do I need a primer or is there a paint that will adhere to metal ect [/size][/#000080][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][#000080][size 3]Thanks in advance Paul[/size][/#000080][/font]
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Hey SUDH! One trick you may try is sealing them with swamp cooler coating. I can't remember the exact name, but I used to work HVAC, and you can buy it in a pint can, or a spray paint can. It goes on kinda thick, but it dries relatively hard, and is waterproof. We used to fix small leaks/holes in coolers to give them some extra life. There is also a type of mastic you can by at RV places, such as Blain Jensen RV in Kaysville. It has a silvery/white look to it, it is kind of expensive, but it seals up aluminum trailor roofs like a champ. Good luck with the repair.
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I have the same type of problem . I have a wood floor in my boat that needs a little repair so I may rip it out and replace it . While I got the floor out was thinking of coating it with roofing tar or something on the inside . A friend of mine told me I need to clean the aluminum boat with vinegar before I paint it , to get the paint to bond good . I have not tried this , so I don't know if it works or what paint is best to use . not much help but I am interested in the replies you get on this post .
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Rattleguard makes a spray in bed liner (similar to Rhino liners) that they recomend for the bottom of boats. It adheres well to clean and painted aluminum. If you have worked with spray in bed linings you know how well that stuff sticks. It is an epoxy/eurethane based material. You will have to search for their site, I don't have a link right off hand. But a coat of that up to water level may provide a long lasting seal for your boat.
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The spray in bed liner stuff that was mentioned before should seal it really well. You need to clean it and will probably still want to rub it down with vinigar. After the liner is sprayed in, I would go over that with some white kool seal, or some other kind of mobile home roof sealer. That black bed liner stuff will bake your butt on a hot summer day.
I've used that kool seal to make my own marine plywood. Have you ever priced marine plywood? A cheap sheet of plywood and a 20.00 can of kool seal is much better. I need to go downstairs and put another coat on my casting deck right now.
good luck
walleyebob
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[font "Garamond"][size 4]Hey you know what he could do is have that bed-liner stuff (like Rhino) sprayed on the OUTSIDE of his boat. That stuff does come in colors and would kill 2 fish with one hook. I can't imagine that a boat that size would be that much more expensive than say a long bed.[/size][/font]
[font "Garamond"][size 4]There's a guy that owned a Rhino franchise around the corner from me and he had an old Blazer or Bronco that he "painted" that way. [/size][/font]
[font "Garamond"][size 4]I'm not exactly sure the stuff would work on aluminum all that well but would be worth a phone call to find out. [/size][/font]
[font "Garamond"][size 4]As far as a more traditional fix is concerned, perhaps there is a marine-type silicone product out there that can be applied with a caulking gun. In fact I just did a real quick Google search and it looks like 3M makes a few products like this that might do the trick. I'd also suggest a call to someplace like SSMarine since they deal with aluminum boat sales and service. [/size][/font]
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If it's just the rivets that are leaking I have repaired them two different ways. 1- tighten the rivet by holding a heavy hammer against one side and holding a flat punch the same size as the rivet against the other side and tapping it with a hammer. 2- Put a gob of clear tub & tile silicon caulk over and around the rivet and holding the nozzle of a good shop vac on the other side for a few seconds. This will suck the silicon into the open spaces. then wipe off the excess.
I would hesitate before using Rino Lining on the outside of the boat, it has a fairly coarse texture and would cause a lot of drag.
fdg
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[blue][size 2]I'm with Fish Dog--do it right. Either re-seat the rivets by pounding them or drill them out and replace. While your boat is sitting on the trailer, fill it partially with water and watch the bottom of the boat for water leaking from seams, rivets, etc. Don't fill it too full that you overload your trailer.[/size][/blue]
[blue][size 2]Also check the transom to make sure it's not deteriorated (common in old boats) and check any holes in the transom for transducers, paddle wheels, pitot tubes, etc. Remove and reseal if suspect.[/size][/blue]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]I agree with Dennis and Fish-Dog, reseat or replace the rivets. You can go to a good marine shop and they will reseat or replace the rivets for a nominal charge if you've already have identified which ones leak or do it the way fish dog explained. If you need new ones, have the marine shop install them with the proper tools. [/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]You could drill them out so the time in the shop is to a minimum. At $70 an hour, I'd have that baby ready for installation and go water test it yourself. Rivets are not rocket science. I would only use a sealant if it is to replace the factory installed sealant strips or there is no other option along leaky seams.[/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]I, myself, would avoid coating the hull, especially the exterior of the hull. Not only is bedliner material expensive, it adds unwanted weight and can effect performance on smaller craft with smaller motors.[/size][/font]
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[#ff0000][size 2]My little aluminum is over thirty years old and the bestest thing I have found is polish off all of the oxidation and then just a little silicon rubbed into the joint and rivet inside and out. It’s a little time consuming but lasts for several years. Enjoy![/size][/#ff0000]
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so do you use just a plain polishing compound and a buffer to do the boat never on sunday?
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[#ff0000]My little boat is painted an OD green that is oxidized pretty good. I just use a little buffer wheel on my sander. I then put a tiny dab of silicon on the rivit and rub it in to the crease around the rivit with my finger. You can hardly tell it is there but has sure made a difference in keping my boat dry on the inside. It is flexible enough that it doesn't crack and pop like other things I've tried when the boat gets flexed. Cheers![/#ff0000]
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